Friday, October 15, 2010

a little schnitzel and potato salad for Oktoberfest

Oktoberfest is a big celebration for Germans, and since I am half German, and know very little about German food, I thought that was a good reason to do a little research.  A schnitzel is really about a style of cooking meat, and it doesn't really matter if it is veal, pork, chicken, or even wild game.  The Austrians tend to use veal, the Germans, pork.  So I decided to give it a go with some boneless pork loin chops.

I started by arranging the chops on a plastic cutting board (one I use only for raw meat, because it can go in the dishwasher,) covering them with a little plastic wrap, and whacking away at them with a meat pounder.  A sturdy rolling pin or a heavy pan would work as well.  One of the key elements of a schnitzel is using a very thin piece of meat.  I went for about a quarter of an inch thickness.  Next time I make it, I will go even thinner, because I discovered that the meat shrinks back up a bit as it cooks.
pounding the meat thin makes for faster cooking
and moister meat

The cooking part is really very simple.  Season the meat with salt and pepper and set it aside.  Line up three dinner plates on the counter.  In the first one, put about a cup of flour for four cutlets -- more if you are making more chops, less if you are making fewer.  In the second plate, break a couple of eggs and add a tablespoon of milk.  Whisk that together.  In the third plate, put breadcrumbs.  I used panko breadcrumbs, which is hardly authentic, but I like their ease of use and the way they get super crispy, but any fine, dry crumbs will do.  Simply dip the cutlets in the flour, then the eggs, and finally the bread crumbs, shaking off any excess, and pressing on the crumbs to adhere them firmly to the meat.  Setting the coated chops aside for a few minutes to allow the crumbs to set a little is a good idea.  I set them on a wire rack.

Heat a couple of tablespoons of butter and a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium heat.  The butter will add flavor to the breading, and the oil raises the smoke point of the butter, so you can cook at a little higher temperature.  You want the chops to sizzle as soon as they hit the pan.  An easy way to make sure the pan is hot enough is to test a few breadcrumbs in the oil before you add the cutlets.  Schnitzel will cook in about two minutes on each side.  You want them nice and golden brown, but not overcooked.  Overcooked pork can be very dry -- particularly the loin, which is very low fat.

To add complexity to a very simple dish, I wanted a good German potato salad, which I had made before.  I prefer it to a mayonnaise based potato salad for its lightness and its vinegar tang.  I used little baby dutch yellow potatoes, just because I like their flavor and firmness, and their quick cooking time.  Any boiling potato will work, but baking potatoes are too crumbly for this salad.  The vegetables used in the potato salad vary among recipes, so I suggest using whatever you prefer, though a bit of onion is always in order.  I had a pretty little red bell pepper from the garden, a serrano pepper, and a bunch of green onions.  Perfect.
whatever vegetables you use, mince them fairly small

While the potatoes boil (or cook in the microwave, whichever method you prefer), slice two or three strips of bacon into quarter inch strips, and fry over medium low heat until crisp.  Remove the bacon from the pan, and add the vegetables to the bacon fat, cooking just until tender.
the vegetables are cooked just to tender crisp
so they retain a bit of body and a nice bright color

Once the vegetables are done, add a third of a cup of vinegar, and simmer to reduce a bit.  I used white balsamic vinegar.  I like its nice aroma and mellow flavor, but white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar will work as well.  Avoid red or dark vinegars, which will stain the potatoes with an unappealing color.  Add in a teaspoon or so of salt, some freshly ground pepper, and some mustard seeds, or coarsely ground mustard seeds.  Slice the cooked potatoes into little rounds as soon as you can handle them.  You want them as hot as possible.  Add the dressing to the warm potatoes, throw in the crisp bacon, and add a handful of fresh herbs for brightness.  I had parsley and chives on hand, so that's what I used.
herbs add to the spicy aroma of the warm salad

The spicy warm salad was a great foil for the crunchy but simply prepared pork.  
a simple October dinner, ready in about 30 minutes
next time, I will pound the pork even thinner

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