curious in the kitchen: the unthinkable

Monday, March 28, 2011

the unthinkable

We did, well... the unthinkable... last night. After seeing it on a Mario Batali show, I coated a rib eye with lard (yes, you read that correctly--unadulterated pig fat), rosemary, and loads of garlic, mixed into a paste. Mario was visiting a NYC eatery with wonderful steaks, and that is what they did. I must admit, it gave the steak a marvelous crust and the flavor of both the garlic and the rosemary.

To compliment the steak with some Italian flair, I rethought a Tuscan kale dish I posted here earlier. The one I made with gnocchi made from squash. This time I made the squash into pasta.

a kobucha squash, roasted for about an hour, made a nice puree

To the puree, I added a teaspoon or so of freshly grated nutmeg, along with a teaspoon of salt, and an egg. The squash had a lot of moisture, so the puree took quite a bit of flour. In fact, enough flour to make pasta for four or so meals for two people.

the dough was very supple, and a pretty, subtle shade of yellow

this tray full of cut pasta was made from just a third of the dough --

I froze the other two thirds

Because it took so much flour, the flavor of the squash was subtle, but it was definitely there, making it the perfect foil for a saute of Tuscan kale, mushrooms, onions,and fresh sage. I first sauteed the mushrooms and onions in a little olive oil, salt and pepper, then added the kale, 1/2 a cup each of chicken broth and white wine, and cooked it until it just wilted.

I had a fresh sweet onion on hand--look for fresh onion in the spring;

they have a subtle flavor and are very tender

Tuscan kale is my favorite--it cooks in just minutes and has a nutty, not too bitter flavor

The light sauce and tender greens made for an interesting pairing with the crusty steak. Be sure and try adding sage to greens some time. Not too much, as it is a strong herb, but the flavor pairing just sings.

to make up for my sins with the pig fat, I served a modest

4 ounce portion of well-rested meat

Okay, so here's the kicker. I will do the lard coating again. It really did make a nice crust on the meat, and most of it finished its life in the bottom of the grill pan. I can get fresh local lard from Whole Foods, it is actually lower in saturated fat than butter, and I use it seldom and sparingly. All self-justification, I know, but the pleasure of a well prepared meal trumps portion size for me every time. Maybe, to add some smoke flavor to the party, I'll try rendered bacon fat next time...

1 comment:

Little RattyMarch 28, 2011 at 11:41 AM
Lard? LARD? Well I guess the meat would have to rest after rolling around in unadulterated pig fat. But hey, lard makes everything better.
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a drink on the side

Crema de limone success! Char was here to visit, and she told me that I only needed to let the everclear sit for another week or so -- the meyer lemons had really given up all they had to give very quickly. The vanilla wasn't quite as pronounced, though, and we thought it might benefit from a longer soak. It was a bit difficult to judge, because when you put your nose over a bottle of Everclear, basically, the first thing you get is a bit overwhelmed by the alcohol. But after you get done shivering and wiping the tears out of your eyes, you can pick up the back notes of lemon and vanilla. Once mixed with the copious quantities of milk and sugar, and parking the bottled product in the freezer you end up with a lovely, silky, lemon and vanilla concoction that will, um, knock you on your ass if you don't watch it. It is delicious, but that everclear bites like a snake. Yum! But just one little glass, please. Anyone who would like the full recipe, just drop me an email.
the grand limoncello experiment has begun, and it should be ready just in time for Christmas. My friend Char makes delicious limoncello, which I think is called Crema di limone. Much to my surprise, grain alcohol is legal here in SC, so I picked up a 1.75 liter bottle of Everclear, and infused it with the peel from 8 Meyer lemons, and one blood orange. Char's recipe is made with Italian vinallina, which is a powdered vanilla flavor, but I managed to misplace the vinallina she gave me last summer. So I added 4 vanilla beans to the mix and crossed my fingers. It has only been one day for the peels to infuse in the Everclear, and already the liquid is a gorgeous shade of yellow. I will let it sit for another 30 days, and update you when I am ready to make the final product. Anticipation!
yum. While we were in Erie, our friend Char introduced us to a new cocktail. I don't remember what she called it -- maybe blueberry lemonade -- but I surely remember sipping on the frosty cold cocktail. Correct me if I am wrong here, Char, but it was basically a little bruised mint, blueberry vodka, and good homemade lemonade. The epitome of summer! Correction: Char tells me to add a bit of simple syrup to the bottom of the glass before muddling the mint. The lemonade is made by mixing simple syrup with freshly squeezed lemon juice and ice cold water. And Char know her lemons. She makes the best limocello I have ever tasted. Positively addictive. I will make some this fall and post the recipe here.
when you want just one margarita, and you don't want to fool around with squeezing fresh limes, I have found that the frozen margarita mixes, or even a can of limeade can make a tasty margarita. Just scoop out about 2 tablespoons of the frozen mix. Add 1 1/2 ounces tequila, 1/2 ounce orange liqueur, stir to melt the limeade, and serve blended with ice, or simply poured over crushed ice in a salt rimmed glass. Substitute sparkling water for the alcohol, and you have a refreshing non alcoholic drink to pair with a spicy plate of adovada.
something good to drink for a cold? Hot tea. But don't stop there. I like a nice cup of my favorite herb tea, punched up a bit with a couple of pieces of candied ginger and a tablespoon of honey. If you are really craving something to help you doze off, add a tablespoon of brandy. Preferably consumed while in your jammies and some fuzzy slippers. Drink the tea, chew the little pieces of candied ginger, and head off to bed with a doze-inducing book. Anna Karenina or War and Peace are reliable choices, and offer you the added benefit of pretending you are reading the classics.
I now believe in Santa Claus, the Easter Bunny, and the kindness of strangers. Jim's cousin was here over the weekend, and he brought with him an EXCELLENT Merlot that he made with, get this, grapes from Erie, PA. I have to tell you that was a first for me. A really delicious, rich, floral wine right out of a vineyard in Erie. There are some pigs flying by my window...
In hectic times, a little comfort goes a long way. When I have been working late, and I'm cranky, a very comforting way to relax at the end of the evening is a nice cup of hot chocolate. A simple mix will do, when you have an ounce or two of orange liqueur to add in. Stir in a dash of vanilla, if you are really in need of some aroma therapy.
This is a little drink I whipped up in honor of my friend Laura in Spain. Great to sip while you are whipping up a great pizza. In a cocktail shaker, add the juice of two tangerines (strained,) the juice of ½ a Meyer lemon (strained,) 2 ounces Rye whiskey, 1 ounce Maraschino Liquor, 2 dashes of bitters, and ice. Shake until frosty, and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a piece of tangerine peel.
Something cool and refreshing with a little non-alcoholic bite -- I call it the Gingersnap. Great for any food with some heat to it. In a cocktail shaker, combine: 4 pieces candied ginger, a one inch piece of lemongrass, roughly chopped, two tsp superfine sugar, and four sprigs of mint. Muddle to combine and release flavors, add sparkling water, Pour into a tall glass, and top with ice. Garnish with a lemon slice, and serve with a straw for sipping.
For a good burger, nothing beats a cold beer. Tonight, we'll be trying a Yuengling I spotted at Total Wine the other day. A Bock. I didn't know they made one. Their Porter is simply the best. Most of their other beers I can take or leave, so we'll see how the Bock stands up.
With a good steak, I just don't think you need anything more complicated than a decent red wine. I am having great luck with reasonably priced bottles (under $12) of red out of Argentina and Spain. Particularly the Malbecs and Temperanillos. Check a couple of them out.
Here's a little non-acoholic libation I call "The Morning After" but it is a great drink along side a plate of spicy hot food. 6 oz freshly squeezed orange juice, with pulp, 3 oz freshly squeezed pinapple juice, juice of two meyer lemons, juice of one lime, 2 TBS Grenadine. Combine all ingredients, and pour into a tall glass filled with crushed ice. Top off with sparkling water, and stir to combine. Garnish with a slice of lime.
Perfect for a head cold.... 1 1/2 oz green tea liquer, 1 oz cardamom liquer, 1 cup hot milk. Combine in a mug, and stir with a cinnamon stick. If you cannot find cardamom liqueur, substitute a spice or fruit based liqueur, such as creme de cassis, or pernod. Yummy, and soothing.
A Mex food classic. In a cocktail shaker, combine: 4 oz good quality agave white tequila 1 oz Patron orange liquer 3 oz freshly squeezed lime juice 2 TBS superfine sugar Outer peel of ½ lime Muddle to combine, add ice, and shake to chill Strain into a martini glass dipped in lime juice and rimmed with sea salt.
a yummy lagniappe to a Sunday brunch. 3 oz freshlly squeezed oj, 1/2 oz orange liqueur, 3 oz champagne, in a pretty champagne flute. Simple, but with a little extra orange kick.
3 oz good quality white agave tequila, 1/2 oz Monin Syrup - grenadine , into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake to chill and combine, strain into a martini glass dipped in a bit of the grenadine, and rimmed with sugar. Garnish with a piece of lime peel
a great Margarita: 4 oz good quality white agave tequila, 1 oz Patron orange liqueur, 3 oz freshly squeezed lime juice, 2 TBS superfine sugar, outer peel of ½ lime. Muddle to combine, add ice, and shake to chill. Strain into a salt rimmed martini glass.
A classic with a surprise. 3 oz very good gin, 1/2 oz dry vermouth, stir on ice until well chilled, and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a umeboshi plum and a twist of lemon

other foodie stuff I want to talk about

Stock alert -- made beef broth the other day, and chicken stock today. Frustrated with clarifying the stock, I draped a microfiber cloth over the strainer, and got virtually clear stock. Not as crystal clear as clarifying with an egg white raft, but much clearer than a simple trip through the strainer, and all I had to do was rinse the microfiber cloth and toss it in the washer. If you are making your own stock, give it a try.

For instance -- why do most recipes call for seeding tomatoes for sauces and salsas? Is it because the seeds supposedly impart a bitter flavor? Not to my palate they don't, and I also like the unctuous texture added by the gel they are suspended in -- which also adds a lot of tomato flavor, in my humble opinion. I rarely seed, and often don't peel, either, and I have never had anyone notice the difference.

Same goes for ginger. Why peel? The peel is pale, disappears in most recipes, and is so thin there is no way it could make a textural difference in a recipe. I never peel. I think it is just one of those things that gets done because it has always been done.

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Monday, March 28, 2011

the unthinkable

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