curious in the kitchen: unraveling a Thai dish

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

unraveling a Thai dish

Jim and I rarely go out to eat, since I love to cook, but when we do, we usually opt for Thai food. I don't cook a lot of Thai, because it can be complicated, and we have an excellent Thai restaurant close by. But I will admit, it is one of my favorite cuisines. The other night I tried a new dish at the restaurant. It was so good, I couldn't resist trying to replicate it. The fun part was the research. In the course of trying to find out about the bones of the dish, I discovered that Thai cuisine sometimes uses five spice powder, which explains the subtle spice I tasted on the chicken, including a faint hint of clove, which had thrown me off a bit when first tasting the dish. I had never tasted clove in a Thai dish before. Speaking of five spice, I have mentioned before the astounding recipe from China Moon that is actually a ten-spice concoction. Well worth making. I finally ordered Szechwan peppercorns from Penzeys, so I could make it properly.

So, this dish -- it was a chicken dish with small pieces of chicken, fried, with an ethereally light crust and a hint of warm spice. The veggies were lightly steamed, and it all sat in a pool of a sweet/sour/spicy sauce. My first search was for the sauce. I finally settled on a recipe I found on the net that included fresh red chiles, which I happened to have on hand. It's a simple sauce, including garlic, chiles, sugar, vinegar, water, and salt. It is thickened in the end with a bit of cornstarch.

the sauce has a gorgeous color and a nice consistency

The next step was the veggies. I happened to have beautiful little zucchinis in the garden, an onion, a leek, carrots, and bell peppers on hand. I had to go to the store for chicken, so I grabbed a little broccoli and snow peas as well.

lovely little zucs and a handful of cilantro from the garden,

which is going berserk

Then, I marinated the thin strips of chicken in a little oyster sauce, some fish sauce, a clove of garlic, a little five spice powder, and the chopped cilantro. I only marinated it for about an hour. During that time, I sliced the veggies thin on a mandoline, steamed them to crisp/tender, and shocked them in an ice bath.

so beautiful

the shock, after the brief steam

Now, for the chicken. I mixed about 3/4 cup of corn starch, 1 cup of rice flour, and a tablespoon of five spice powder together, and dredged the marinated chicken in that. In about 1/2 inch very hot oil, I fried the strips in batches until they were crisp and golden brown. The corn starch and rice flour mixture resulted in a very thin and beautifully crunchy crust with a wonderfully spiced flavor.

the chicken was crispy, without a hint of greasiness

Now, all to do was combine everything. I reheated the veggies in a cup or so of the sauce, tossed in the chicken, and served everything over rice. It was divine. Crisp veggies, spiced chicken, and spicy/sweet/hot sauce. It wasn't an exact duplicate of the dish I had at the Thai restuarant, but it was close, and absolutely delicious. Well worth the effort.

a very delicious dinner

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a drink on the side

Crema de limone success! Char was here to visit, and she told me that I only needed to let the everclear sit for another week or so -- the meyer lemons had really given up all they had to give very quickly. The vanilla wasn't quite as pronounced, though, and we thought it might benefit from a longer soak. It was a bit difficult to judge, because when you put your nose over a bottle of Everclear, basically, the first thing you get is a bit overwhelmed by the alcohol. But after you get done shivering and wiping the tears out of your eyes, you can pick up the back notes of lemon and vanilla. Once mixed with the copious quantities of milk and sugar, and parking the bottled product in the freezer you end up with a lovely, silky, lemon and vanilla concoction that will, um, knock you on your ass if you don't watch it. It is delicious, but that everclear bites like a snake. Yum! But just one little glass, please. Anyone who would like the full recipe, just drop me an email.
the grand limoncello experiment has begun, and it should be ready just in time for Christmas. My friend Char makes delicious limoncello, which I think is called Crema di limone. Much to my surprise, grain alcohol is legal here in SC, so I picked up a 1.75 liter bottle of Everclear, and infused it with the peel from 8 Meyer lemons, and one blood orange. Char's recipe is made with Italian vinallina, which is a powdered vanilla flavor, but I managed to misplace the vinallina she gave me last summer. So I added 4 vanilla beans to the mix and crossed my fingers. It has only been one day for the peels to infuse in the Everclear, and already the liquid is a gorgeous shade of yellow. I will let it sit for another 30 days, and update you when I am ready to make the final product. Anticipation!
yum. While we were in Erie, our friend Char introduced us to a new cocktail. I don't remember what she called it -- maybe blueberry lemonade -- but I surely remember sipping on the frosty cold cocktail. Correct me if I am wrong here, Char, but it was basically a little bruised mint, blueberry vodka, and good homemade lemonade. The epitome of summer! Correction: Char tells me to add a bit of simple syrup to the bottom of the glass before muddling the mint. The lemonade is made by mixing simple syrup with freshly squeezed lemon juice and ice cold water. And Char know her lemons. She makes the best limocello I have ever tasted. Positively addictive. I will make some this fall and post the recipe here.
when you want just one margarita, and you don't want to fool around with squeezing fresh limes, I have found that the frozen margarita mixes, or even a can of limeade can make a tasty margarita. Just scoop out about 2 tablespoons of the frozen mix. Add 1 1/2 ounces tequila, 1/2 ounce orange liqueur, stir to melt the limeade, and serve blended with ice, or simply poured over crushed ice in a salt rimmed glass. Substitute sparkling water for the alcohol, and you have a refreshing non alcoholic drink to pair with a spicy plate of adovada.
something good to drink for a cold? Hot tea. But don't stop there. I like a nice cup of my favorite herb tea, punched up a bit with a couple of pieces of candied ginger and a tablespoon of honey. If you are really craving something to help you doze off, add a tablespoon of brandy. Preferably consumed while in your jammies and some fuzzy slippers. Drink the tea, chew the little pieces of candied ginger, and head off to bed with a doze-inducing book. Anna Karenina or War and Peace are reliable choices, and offer you the added benefit of pretending you are reading the classics.
I now believe in Santa Claus, the Easter Bunny, and the kindness of strangers. Jim's cousin was here over the weekend, and he brought with him an EXCELLENT Merlot that he made with, get this, grapes from Erie, PA. I have to tell you that was a first for me. A really delicious, rich, floral wine right out of a vineyard in Erie. There are some pigs flying by my window...
In hectic times, a little comfort goes a long way. When I have been working late, and I'm cranky, a very comforting way to relax at the end of the evening is a nice cup of hot chocolate. A simple mix will do, when you have an ounce or two of orange liqueur to add in. Stir in a dash of vanilla, if you are really in need of some aroma therapy.
This is a little drink I whipped up in honor of my friend Laura in Spain. Great to sip while you are whipping up a great pizza. In a cocktail shaker, add the juice of two tangerines (strained,) the juice of ½ a Meyer lemon (strained,) 2 ounces Rye whiskey, 1 ounce Maraschino Liquor, 2 dashes of bitters, and ice. Shake until frosty, and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a piece of tangerine peel.
Something cool and refreshing with a little non-alcoholic bite -- I call it the Gingersnap. Great for any food with some heat to it. In a cocktail shaker, combine: 4 pieces candied ginger, a one inch piece of lemongrass, roughly chopped, two tsp superfine sugar, and four sprigs of mint. Muddle to combine and release flavors, add sparkling water, Pour into a tall glass, and top with ice. Garnish with a lemon slice, and serve with a straw for sipping.
For a good burger, nothing beats a cold beer. Tonight, we'll be trying a Yuengling I spotted at Total Wine the other day. A Bock. I didn't know they made one. Their Porter is simply the best. Most of their other beers I can take or leave, so we'll see how the Bock stands up.
With a good steak, I just don't think you need anything more complicated than a decent red wine. I am having great luck with reasonably priced bottles (under $12) of red out of Argentina and Spain. Particularly the Malbecs and Temperanillos. Check a couple of them out.
Here's a little non-acoholic libation I call "The Morning After" but it is a great drink along side a plate of spicy hot food. 6 oz freshly squeezed orange juice, with pulp, 3 oz freshly squeezed pinapple juice, juice of two meyer lemons, juice of one lime, 2 TBS Grenadine. Combine all ingredients, and pour into a tall glass filled with crushed ice. Top off with sparkling water, and stir to combine. Garnish with a slice of lime.
Perfect for a head cold.... 1 1/2 oz green tea liquer, 1 oz cardamom liquer, 1 cup hot milk. Combine in a mug, and stir with a cinnamon stick. If you cannot find cardamom liqueur, substitute a spice or fruit based liqueur, such as creme de cassis, or pernod. Yummy, and soothing.
A Mex food classic. In a cocktail shaker, combine: 4 oz good quality agave white tequila 1 oz Patron orange liquer 3 oz freshly squeezed lime juice 2 TBS superfine sugar Outer peel of ½ lime Muddle to combine, add ice, and shake to chill Strain into a martini glass dipped in lime juice and rimmed with sea salt.
a yummy lagniappe to a Sunday brunch. 3 oz freshlly squeezed oj, 1/2 oz orange liqueur, 3 oz champagne, in a pretty champagne flute. Simple, but with a little extra orange kick.
3 oz good quality white agave tequila, 1/2 oz Monin Syrup - grenadine , into a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake to chill and combine, strain into a martini glass dipped in a bit of the grenadine, and rimmed with sugar. Garnish with a piece of lime peel
a great Margarita: 4 oz good quality white agave tequila, 1 oz Patron orange liqueur, 3 oz freshly squeezed lime juice, 2 TBS superfine sugar, outer peel of ½ lime. Muddle to combine, add ice, and shake to chill. Strain into a salt rimmed martini glass.
A classic with a surprise. 3 oz very good gin, 1/2 oz dry vermouth, stir on ice until well chilled, and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a umeboshi plum and a twist of lemon

other foodie stuff I want to talk about

Stock alert -- made beef broth the other day, and chicken stock today. Frustrated with clarifying the stock, I draped a microfiber cloth over the strainer, and got virtually clear stock. Not as crystal clear as clarifying with an egg white raft, but much clearer than a simple trip through the strainer, and all I had to do was rinse the microfiber cloth and toss it in the washer. If you are making your own stock, give it a try.

For instance -- why do most recipes call for seeding tomatoes for sauces and salsas? Is it because the seeds supposedly impart a bitter flavor? Not to my palate they don't, and I also like the unctuous texture added by the gel they are suspended in -- which also adds a lot of tomato flavor, in my humble opinion. I rarely seed, and often don't peel, either, and I have never had anyone notice the difference.

Same goes for ginger. Why peel? The peel is pale, disappears in most recipes, and is so thin there is no way it could make a textural difference in a recipe. I never peel. I think it is just one of those things that gets done because it has always been done.

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Tuesday, May 24, 2011

unraveling a Thai dish

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